xt7p5h7btg4z https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dipstest/xt7p5h7btg4z/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1946 journals kaes_circulars_004_429 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 429 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 429 1946 1946 2014 true xt7p5h7btg4z section xt7p5h7btg4z "LOT ING P ° l /4 I-I CI  
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i University ot Kentucky . . College of Agriculture ond l
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y, mil Home Economics . . Agriculturol Extension Division , 1
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t Agri;   Thomos P. Cooper, Deon ond Director I l
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CLOTHING PROJECTS FOR 4-H GIRLS
The following nine projects of clothing work are available to
4-l-l Club girls:
_ _ _ b
Sexriiig—,»\ New \eniurc
School Frocks O
Sleeping or Lounging l£nseinl1lt· nl
Play and Work Clothes Vt
Dress-Up Costume O
l-H Girls Formal Dress O
Scniitziilored Cottons and Rayons rl
l`ziil0rec Up to Date if;
Only one project should be undertaken within any one year G
of 4-l·l club work. A girl starting in 4-H work with no experience l
in sewing should take the first project ("Sewing—A New Ven- ll
ture") the first year and "School Frocks" the second. After com-
pleting these she may choose either one of the next two ("Sleep- N
_ ing or Lounging Ensemble" or "Play ond Work Clothes"). The
next three ("Dress-Up Costume," "4-H Girl’s Formcil Dress" and
"Semitailored Cottons and Rayons") may be token in any order,
depending on the girl’s wardrobe needs.
The last two ("Tailored Suit or Ensemble" and "Bringing Your
Wardrobe Up To Date") may be taken in the order desired. They
are for girls above the overage in sewing skill and planning knowl-
edge, and should be taken only when the other project requirements
have been completed.
Girls who have had some experience in sewing before enrolling
in 4-l·l clothing projects may, upon approvol of the leader or agent,
omit the first two projects listed above. I
Lexington, Kentucky
March, l947
1

   `
» ~ l
TAILORED SUIT OR  
EN SEM BLE    
Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs ‘ T lV·4 g
T By EDITH LACY Gnd DOROTHY GENTRY (_   T v.l_
E O . ,_  
lf you are eligible for this project you have finished a num- ‘ 2 it,
ber of simpler 4-H clothing project units. You have developed . ij  
certain skills in choosing and handling various fabrics and in   Y
making costumes appropriate for different occasions. You are now ( .  
ready in confidence and sewing ability, to undertake the tailoring ‘
of a costume. You may want to remodel or remake some garment, j l . j
or you may want to make a new one. Distinctive clothing bought ,‘
ready-made, is expensive. Professional dressmakers and tailors "
charge much for their workmanship and skill because it requires ' . ·
time and experience. A girl who learns the right ways in tailoring   ,
Yee, and applies them skillfully can turn an old garment into an at- l
ence tractive up—to—date one, or a few yards of carefully selected fabric , ,.
yen- into o distinctive costume. _ _
CSS;} WHAT TO DOIN THIS PROJECT ‘ A
The "H€Gd HH _
Gnd (a) Make a plan for your clothing for the year, basing it on an `·
rderl inventory of your clothing and on the clothing account you VI
kept last year.
Your (b) Study ready-made tailored costumes, noting particularly j
They lapels, collars, facings, buttonholes, linings. Compare in- °
WOWL expensive garments with expensive ones. Notice the dif- l yl
WMS ference in construction. .
(c) Plan a tailored costume for yourself, basing it on your ward- `
Ming robe needs. lf you hove o used garment which has possi- l
bilities for remodeling, you may renovate it rather than A
gem buy new material. i
"Hund H" V ·
(a) Make a complete tailored costume. This may be either V
(l) a dress; (2) a dress and jacket, (3) a suit, (4) a dress and E
topcoat; or (5) a suit and topcoat. T `
(b) Make or select accessories to go with this costume.  
(c) Get or make undergarments to go with costume. V I 
(d) Continue keeping an account of your expenditures for j
clothing. Use "4—H Club Girls' Clothing Account and  
Budget Book"  
(e) Keep a record of work in this project.  
[ 3 ]

 1 Girls who have had little experience in sewing woolens should
l make a dress or simple jacket suit. Only older girls who have (F
A sewed wool before should attempt tailored suits or topcoats. A Vt
girl may take this project unit more than one year, if she makes Ft
a different type of outfit each year and progresses from the simpler Tl
to the more difficult costume. Q
PLANNING THE WARDROBE C
· The most satisfying wardrobe is one that has been carefully
planned. Every garment should be chosen to fill a real place in the {
wardrobe as a whole. By checking the condition of each garment, C
decide which articles can be used as they are, which need remodel- C
ing, and which are no longer of use to you. Decide whether or not j
those no longer of use to you need to be replaced. With this list
of needed articles before you, study your last year’s record of r
· expenditures. Will the same amount this year take care of your i
needs? Do you think you can buy more wisely this year? Talk with E
your parents about the amount of money available for the entire (
fami|y’s clothing. Are you getting more than your share? With the  
answers to these questions in mind, make any adjustments neces- 1
sary in your original plan.
FOR ECONOMY IN CLOTHES  
l. Choose double-duty clothes.
2. Remodel garments if the fabric is worth the time and effort I
· necessary to make the garment wearable again. '
3. Take good care of all clothing. ‘
-4. Avoid fads in fashion, because a fad dates a costume.
5. Choose all garments and accessories to harmonize with one
basic color.
6. Choose clothes with pieces that can be switched around,
making several outfits.
FABRICS FOR TAILORED GARMENTS
In selecting fabrics for your tailored costumes, consider the
type of outfit to be made, where and when the outfit is to be worn,
the kind of fabric that will be the most becoming to you, and finally
your experience in working with woolens.
Type of Outfit to be Made
Wool crepe and other light—weight or medium-weight soft
woolen materials are suitable for dresses. Suiting fabrics such as
medium—weight tweed, stripes, men’s wear worsted, and coverts are
all firm and heavy enough to tailor well into suits. Coat materials
should be chosen with care. Woolens of good quality have G
springy feel when crumpled in the hand. Heavy, stiff woolens
` are a poor choice for coats or suits.
l [41

 ( ..i  L.
_I|d Wool is being combined with other fibers such as cotton, aralac ~   (
We . (made of casein from milk), rayon, and rabbit’s hair. This does V Il
A not necessarily mean poorer—quality fabric, but the fabric may Ii l
(QS require different care. Be sure to read the labels on the fabrics so ‘ `.'. ,
ilgr that you will know from what they are made and so that you will _ l (
get your money’s worth. .   II _.
Occasion for which the Outfit Is Made » (   AI ?
IIIY Gaberdine, coverts and other worsteds, simply made, are right ’    
IIIQ for many occasions. Tweed, flannel, shepherd checks, plaids and I    I:  
m corduroy are good for casual and sport wear. Velveteen (cotton)   ,;?
IGI; and such fabrics may be made into dressy costumes. "    
"‘_Ot Material in Relation to Wearers' Figure and Face I . l--
IIS; Rough tweeds, pilefabrics like velveteen, and bold plaid designs ` I
O make a figure look larger. Smooth—surfaced medium weight mater- , l I ,
  ials such as flannel and shepherd checks give a slender, trim look. `   II
  Bright, warm colors (reds, yellow, and orange) and light neutral .
IE; shades (gray, beige, and tan) make the figure look larger. Cool ` I I
I colors (blues and greens), dark shades of brown, and black make In . I
BS- the figure look more slender. (
Besides considering material in relation to your figure, think  
about the colors which are becoming to your individual coloring. I · -
Try it near your face and see if it is right with your complexion, _ I
2OII hair, and eyes. lf the material is poorly chosen you cannot make (
a costume you will like to wear. ‘ ._ I
Your Experience ,I *
me I lf you have not had much sewing experience on woolen mate-
rials, choose plain or indistinct designs, and avoid plaids and stripes .
nd because they require matching and take more time and skill. Select ”
' firmly woven material that is not too heavy to handle and to stitch l ., ‘
well. Such fabric made by a simple pattern will not be too dif- I-
ficult to make into an attractive, good—looking costume. V
  THE PATTERN ' I I I
ally Before selecting the pattern look at pictures in the latest style I
books and fashion magazines. Visit ready—to-wear stores and * '_
observe costumes that are good in design and construction. Deter— ·
mine what pattern will make a perfect costume for you. Remember I
soft that patterns which have severely tailored collars, lapels, and II f
i as set—in pockets require expert workmanship. Collarless jackets, I
are boleros, and loose—fitting styles are easier for 4-H girls to make and I · 
ials are also more youthful. Simple well-cut garments of good materials l
2 a make an excellent foundation costume. Such a one can be varied  
ens by a change of accessories, making it suitable for many occasions.  
Keep in mind that costumes of extreme design may not be good I "
[ 5 ] l

 1 more than one season. Therefore, don't be led astray by fads, for
. you will want your good wool costume to last several years.
` UNDERGARMENTS
Outer clothing requires a proper foundation if it is to look its
best. Undergarments should furnish this necessary foundation.
Modern undergarments are simple, dainty, comfortable, and well-
fitting. The undergarments to choose for your costume will de-
, pend upon the type of outfit and the materials from which the
costume is made. Usually a girdle or garter belt, shorts, and slip
or petticoat are needed.
Most girls prefer to make a slip or petticoat. Synthetic mate-
rials and cotton are appropriate for these. Matching, contrasting, S
or harmonizing colors may be chosen. Such tailored finishes as
french bindings, fitted facings, shell edge, and fagoted or hem- Tl
_ stitched hems are appropriate on undergarments for tailored ll
clothes. Look at ready—made underwear and note any new finishes 0
that might be copied.
ACCESSORIES
Accessories can add greatly to or ruin a costume. Just as much
care should be given to their selection as to the costume itself.
Each accessory should harmonize with the costume in color,
texture, and design.
You may choose to make part of the accessories, such as hat,
_ purse, belt, scarf, or gloves, thereby creating individuality and in-
terest in the costume as well as decreasing the cost. Fashion
booklets give many suggestions for accessories you can make. Also
a visit to the stores may furnish ideas.
GENERAL GUIDE TO CONSTRUCTION
Professional-looking garments require certain practices which
the 4-H Club girl can use. Following are practices you should
observe:
l. Fit the pattern carefully before cutting the garment. Pay
particular attention to waist and shoulder lines, and to
corrections for stooped shoulders or other figure differences.
2. Place the pattern on the correct thread of material. Follow  
pattern directions for this.
3. Cut with long, even strokes accurately following pattern
outline.
4. Mark carefully all perforations, with tailor’s tacks.
5. Remove pieces of pattern from fabric only as each section
is needed.
6. Pin pieces of garment together carefully and baste, being
careful not to stretch any part.
__ _   Try garment on and fit it right side out.
* wi

 .§  ix.
~ 2 · it
for 8. Stitch carefully, using right size and color of thread and g   l
correct length of stitch for fabric. A   T
9. Press each seam as it is stitched. Test temperature of iron V
_ on a scrap of material. Most of the synthetic fibers and   ,
P its wools require a moderate to cool iron. Press on wrong side _ T
‘O"‘· with dampened cloth next to garment and a dry cloth over - l A r
l€ll‘ the dampened cloth. Lift iron rather than running it over T  
de` the surface. Do not press entirely dry. A   `-» .
the lO. Study the pattern guide and read carefully the pattern l ll ~··· ,_;
5l*P instructions. i  ‘ iQ
gte- DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION · V g  
mg] Seems , cj *
; Q5 The type of seam to use depends on the kind of material and {_ il
em- the way the garment is made. The pattern chart will suggest the ,i—
wed types of seam suited to the pattern and for various materials. One i Bil
;|q€$ of the following seams may fit your needs. i ..
.  Edges pinked.——Place right sides .   "
of the material together. Baste, fit V-
\/ and stitch not less than V2 inch A l '
uch wide; 3A; to l inch would be better.
Self   Pink with pinking shears or make  
)lOr’ shallow notches with scissors. This l `
hm Seam wm) ed _ k seam is used for firmly woven mate- · T
_ ’ ges P"` °d rials that do not fray.
l in- _ · _
mm Edges 0verc¤st.——Make a plain V T
MSO A seam. Then overcast each edge sep- V.
arately, working from right to left.
m Depth of stitch and space between ,
stitches vary according to the tex- V
meh M ture of the fabric. The space be- i V,
Duld  . tween stitches should be twice the .
depth of the stitch. This seam is `
pcy used on fabrics that fray moder-  
j TO Seam with edges overcast Clf€lY·
ices. Edges bound.—Bind edges of a l
illow   \ plain seam with ribbon seam bind- i _
ing. The edges are usually bound ·
Tern   separately. This seam finish is used I
_• on unlined coats and jackets.   r
_· Edges stitched.—Machine-stitch E
ZTi0¤ éi each side, M; to h inch from the _  
seam stitching. Trim fairly close to l
€l"‘9 edge stitching and press open flat.  
This seam is flat and durable on  
Seqm wifh edges bound firmly woven fabrics. li
[ 7 ] l

 E . Lapped seams, which are stitched on the right side of the h,
garment, are an effective means of accenting the seam line and tc
- giving finish to a tailored garment. Turn under the seam allow-
ance of the top piece, baste, clip the edge along the curve, and
press without stretching the raw material. Working from the h<
wrong side, lap the two pieces with the raw edges matching. Pin, ui
turn to right side, baste and stitch near edge of the fold. The tl
raw edges may be overcast. tl
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Lapped seam
Hems for Tailored Garments '
Types of hems.— A hem is the last step of construction on 0  
garment. When it is tried on for establishing the hem line, all l
closings and the belt should be fastened. Then the hemline may
be marked with chalk or a row of pins. This can be done by an- I
other person, using a hem marker or yard stick. A cardboard gage W
is needed for marking the width of the hem. The type of hem T
used depends on the material and the type of skirt. l
Flared skirts.———lf the skirt is slightly flared, there will be l
fullness at the top of the hem. Darts or gathers may be used t0 (
ease in this fullness. Gathers are particularly good for woolen mate- '
rial where this fullness may be taken out by shrinking. After
gathering the top edge of hem, draw thread to fit the skirt and i
pin in place, with gathers evenly distributed. To shrink out full- `
ness remove a few pins at a time and slip a piece of wrapping p¤p€F '
into hem. Place a damp press cloth on top of the hem. Cov€V '
Q with a dry cloth. Press from the bottom toward the top of the l
[ 8]

 the hem, Repeat until entire hem is pressed. Stitch seam binding 1.  
Ilcxld to top edge and put down by hand, ,  
Cmd Methods of hand-hemming for dress hems.— Catch-stitch · `,`_ A ,
the hemming is suitable for hems that do not have the raw edge turned I   l
Pm, under. Work from left to right. Take a small stitch Vg inch, in . `, ,__
The the hem, then a stitch in the garment just above the hem, with _ ,i.ig· 
the thread kept to the right side of the needle and the needle `   n _;
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Hem with seam binding using slip-stitch hemming _
held horizontally pointing toward the left. Pick up only a few  
threads of the fabric and do not draw too tight. "
Slip—stitch hemming gives an inconspicuous finish on both
right and wrong sides and is suitable on hems that have been i .,
On O turned a second time, or for those that are finished with Seam l l
8 OH binding. To slip-stitch, bring the needle out from the fold of the "
may h€rn; insert it in the garment directly opposite, taking up one Or ·i
Y OW two threads, and then slip the needle through the fold af the
gage hem or underneath the edge, bringing it out again about 3/V8 tO T
V2 inch farther on T
hem ·
Vertical hemming is similar to slip-stitch hemming but may ,
, be done faster since the floats show on the wrong side instead of ‘,
ill b€ being concealed.
led to
mate Shoulder Pqdg  
After Tailored dresses, jackets, and coats need padding at the j
t and shoulders to give a smooth line. The size and shape of the pad . ‘]
-full- Wlll d€p€nd on the individuals shoulders and the T}/DG of 90**  
paper m€l'll. These pads may be made or bought, If sati$fOC’fOFy O!'\€$ lv
Cover CO"] be bought it may be wise for an inexperi€nC€Cl girl to lDUY  
it the rather than make them.  
[91 '

 s
Corded Piped Buttonholes t
This type ot buttonhole moy be mode without the cord it T
4 desired. Mork the length of the buttonhole with bcisting. Cut T
two cords of medium cotton twine one inch longer thon the mork- T
ing. Cover with bios or stroight moteriol ond boste. Trim row p
edges to V2 inch. Ploce the cords on the right side of the moteriol C
with row edges of covering meeting ot the morked line. Stitch E
the length ot the morked buttonhole. Turn work to the wrong
C
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‘ Corded piped buttonholes Bound pocket
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side and slash in center of space between the stitched lines and     l
then diagonally to the ends as shown, being careful not to cut ‘   S
Cl if the stitching or the piping. Turn the cords through the slash to ‘l
CU? the wrong side. Stitch across the cords, sewing through the slashed  
¤Vl<· triangles at the ends of the buttonhole opening. Slash the button- gn ·' T
VGW t hole apening in the garment facing and slip to the wrong side l—
?"lC'l of the corded buttonhole. iS  
ritch , *" .—
mng Bound Pocket S    
Cut the piece for the pocket and binding as wide as the pocket .   ;.:
S opening is to be made plus one inch, and twice as long as the depth ·    
  ofthe desired finished pocket plus 2 inches. For a dress, an aver- _ ._  
  age size pocket piece may be 3Vz inches wide and 7 inches long. _ .‘l.    
  Mark the pocket opening and stitch the pocket piece over this, as `. `..
  shown. Cut exactly on the center thread through the oblong, to  
  within 3/8 inch of the ends; then make diagonal slashes to stitching S TLS
  at each corner. Turn pouch piece to wrong side of the garment, S· S
  then fold to meet exactly in the center of the slashed opening.  
  Baste in this position and stitch from right side. After stitching ‘
  this binding, fold the upper part of the pocket down and stitch   S
  around the pouch, catching the triangular pieces in with this A
  stitching at the ends of the pocket slash. _ S_
Q HELPS ON SEWING AND TAILORING A ` T
  There are a number of government bulletins which give de- `
  tailed instructions and pictures for the girl who wants to learn good . ‘
  standards. Three U. S. Dept. Agr. publications (Leaflet l954, l'
  "Making a Dress at Home"; Leaflet l968, "Pattern Alteration"; .,
  and Leaflet l964, "Fitting Dresses") are excellent. lf you are
  making a suit by all means use U. S. Dept. Agr. Miscellaneous Pub-
  lication 59l, "l·low to Tailor a Woman’s Suit." The U. S. Dept. "
  Agr. Farmers’ Bulletin l894, "Coat Making at l·lome," will be U,
Q invaluable if a coat is in your project. Ask your Home Demon- .
  stration Agent for the use of the bulletin which will help you with V
  the outfit you are making. _
3 ·
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 4-H RECORD —- TAILORED COSTUME
y Record ot_.___.-....—.-lf?-——— Age-—~— ‘  
(.\'anu·)
Describe the costume you hclve mC1d€Z_._.f.-7..l_..-——
ltemlze costume and clccessories; Cost (money spent)
  $é—-I-
  $..—..—— T
_ ,. $-#—.?1{ Sn
_____,_éi..... te.,} E
  $-I-.a—»»~ s·
Totol $?___# "
[W
List ond describe additionol garments, made or remodeled for {I
yourself ond other$ 
V
 ""* h
 é———-—-; T
l'
C
Hove you started a clothing acc0unt? 
How long have you kept one? 
Date l94__,. Signed 
((f/uh iiiwnr/wr:
Approved __....#
(I’mjr·1‘/ I,wu1Ir·r;
Approved_wC_ _, @,.4,;. ,ro, .F-4,W._.H-
((]rHlH/\` I',`\Ir‘l1\[nIl l_;(¢`HI)
Leggton, Kentuclinivrr VM V O W V Merch, ll94'7
Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics: College of Agriculturr
and Home Economics, University of Kentucky, and the United States Department of Agri-
culture, cooperating. Thomas P. Cooper, Director. Issued in furtherance of the Acts of
May 8 and June 30, 1914. 10M—·8-47
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